It was
necessary to climb across a meadow overrun by brambles in order to arrive at
the large house. When we had untangled the barbed wire which held the old
door shut, we were able to go into a darkness which seemed like the
blackness of a chimney. The planks of the ceiling tilted. Generations of
worms had almost succeeded in transforming it into dust. There were holes in
the boards and we could see into the room above. In the corner there was a
pile of paper, which began the slow descend towards the cellar.
Then we
climbed up a steep, narrow staircase to the first floor. We entered a large
room where the walls were blackened with the smoke of years gone by hit,
which was suddenly Illuminated by a shaft of light which came through the
two dilapidated shutters. In the corner there was a large old bed. Its
mattress was stained by rain which had found its way through the roof slates.
Under the bed there was a pile of papers which we began to gather in order
to examine them more closely.
We found
a packet of letters, Requisition Bonds from the First World War, and some
extracts from legal documents and deeds. We searched through everything. We
discovered names: Alexina Dubuc, Jean-Marie or Joseph, known as 'Le
Pourtérés'.
We found
out later that in this region each house has a name. When referring to
people it is usual to name them after their house because, often, members of
the same family carry the same prename and surname. In this way there was no
need to revise the deeds of inheritance purposes.
After
being deserted for two generations the house seemed to be crying out for
deliverance 'save me from this fate'. We should not prolong its agony. We
put all the papers and photos into a box to attend to later.
And so we
began….
There
were 22 hectares of land which needed to be cleared of its thick covering of
ferns and brambles. The house must be made habitable without delay for
ourselves and our two children. Our first animals were bought immediately.
One
lovely afternoon, an old lady climbed up to pay us a visit. She had retired
from service with the Post Office. She was 75 years old and had often spent
her holidays around here with her grandparents. She had grown up in Paris
where her mother entrusted her to the care of somebody who had no children
of her own. Her mother had left for America soon after, where she married a
candle maker. Her aunt read aloud the letters which arrived from time to
time and she also wrote the replies as she was the only one able to write.
At this time there was much work, and the sons were kept at home because
their labour was needed. It was the daughter who went to school or to
catechism classes.
Her
grandfather who had gone blind, finished his days in an institution. At
home, there was nobody left to look after him. Wars and illness had killed
off many people and, furthermore the old man had made his sons swear that
they would never marry. And, at that time, one obeyed.
A short
time before the grandfather died a cattle dealer came to him and persuaded
him into putting his cross at the bottom of a document which he was unable
to read. Thus it came about that the farm became the property of the dealer.
The dealer put some of his animals there in order to economise on the
expense of the grazing or maybe to hide them, since their origins did not
bear scrutiny. This dealer had, so they say, a 'hen' who liked to scratch……certainly
the money from others!
So the
farm, already quite run-down, had found a new owner at the cost of 5000
Francs or twenty ewes, as confirmed by some of the older residents of the
village.
Time
passed quickly until, one day, the 'good lady' decided to place it all in
the hands of an estate agent in order to finance her retirement. Following
the Renault of the agent on a track which seemed more to be a river bed we
arrived at the end of the track. It was now necessary to continue on foot.
The
estate agent had chosen a good moment. Everything was bathed in the rays of
the sunset. Beside the house there were cows almost up to their knees in
sludge. At least there must be water somewhere!
My wife
and the two children had stayed in the meadow in front of the house and I
climbed up the side. The higher I went the more beautiful it became. When I
finally reached the top, breathless, I observed the mountain tops and wooden
valleys in the vicinity, dotted with the clearings of meadows. The forests
were ablaze with autumn colours and the peaks carried a covering of the
first snows of winter.
I had
fallen for the charms of the place and felt great happiness. I had fallen in
love with it. Furthermore, I had found some mushrooms in the brambles and
heather. We ate them, that evening, in our small caravan at Luzenac.
It was
necessary to begin work everywhere at once. There was no road. Materials
were carried up using a which with 300 m of cable and a wagon guided by a
person. We needed to start up the motor mower, changed by the addition of
tackle, into a winch. One needed to hold on very strongly to the guide
handle in order not to reverse the load.
Sometimes
people visited us. They told us of other Germans who had settled in other
valleys. So, we were not the only foreigners. There was a wave of hippies,
of 'neo-ruraux', as we were called.
The first
cows were bought at the cattle fair in Saint-Girons. The fox who gobbled the
guinea fowl. The cows who used the geese as pillows…..the ducks who went
down to the river and found themselves snatched by some 'merciful'
neighbours….the goats who scaled Moussaou…
Twenty
five years of apprenticeship had begun. Everything had to be done and
sometimes re-done. Little by little we tamed the wilderness by enclosure,
cutting and fertilising.
In the
beginning we wanted to do all by hand. We had only a second-hand motor mower
and a horse. Now we have an abundance of machinery. We noticed that the
'simple life' is sometimes very complicated.
Time is
not counted in hours. The year is the unit. It is in this rhythm that
everything repeats itself or changes. We wish to live in harmony with the
land, with the animals and with nature. Nature has taught us to perceive
things in a different way. It is possible to live with the land with the
animals and with nature. But it is necessary to re-enter the 'grand jeu', to
be a participant and not a spectator.
The
neighbours opposite, who spied on all our movements with their binoculars,
reported that we had transformed the land. But, in truth, it was the land
which had changed us, which had helped us to become ourselves and to find
our place in the great cosmos.
We began
to make cheese. Somebody sold us some old beehives. We displayed for sale
the produce from 'Pourtérés'. We sold at the local markets.
The first
gîte was built from a ruin behind the farm. People had come to share in the
farming life with us .We had revived the work there which had been abandoned
by our predecessors forty years earlier.
During
our third year Lucie was born, the first birth at Las Piasseres for sixty
years. Eliane, the midwife, who was the good angel for all the 'neo' babies
arrived on foot, as her car was blocked by snow.
Since
then the children have grown up and gone their way. Grandchildren have
arrived. 'Le Pourtérés' has become a meeting place - meetings with people,
but also with nature. Those who have been shown it once, come back again.
Here one
is close to the source. Here one can hear, once again, the silence.
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